Riding Through the Himalayas: A Solo Motorcycle Journey in Nepal
When I first landed in Kathmandu, I knew this trip would be an adventure, but I didn’t quite grasp just how challenging and transformative it would be. The plan was simple: rent a bike, ride through Nepal’s stunning landscapes, and push myself beyond my comfort zone. What followed was a journey of resilience, learning, and self-discovery.
Kathmandu: A Baptism by Chaos
I rented a Hero Xpulse 200 from City Motorbike, a fantastic family-run shop. Huge shout out to Sujan who provided a reliable bike but also shared invaluable insights about permits, road conditions, and general riding tips.
Kathmandu itself was overwhelming. The dense traffic, tight roads, and driving on the opposite side immediately threw me out of my element. The city moves in an orchestrated chaos—horns blaring, bikes weaving between cars, pedestrians in the streets. I quickly decided to leave at first light to avoid rush hour and give myself the best chance of easing into the journey.
The Road to Pokhara: A Muddy Reality Check
I had assumed the ride from Kathmandu to Pokhara would be smooth, paved, and easy. Instead, I was greeted with a mixture of dirt roads, endless construction, and thick mud with the occasional relief of tarmac. In towns, locals would water the roads to prevent dust clouds, leaving me with slick and sketchy conditions. This was also my first real off-road experience, and I was trying to adapt to the unpredictable terrain. But through the eight-hour ride, I slowly became more confident. The landscapes were breathtaking, making every challenge feel worth it.
I reached Pokhara just a little too late—the permit office for Lower Mustang had already closed. Accepting the delay, I settled in for the evening, took a hot shower, and walked around the lakeside, absorbing the peaceful atmosphere. As dusk fell, I felt an overwhelming sense of contentment—like I was exactly where I was meant to be.
The Road to Beni Bazaar: A Wake-Up Call
I woke early, secured my permits, and began the next leg of the journey. I was told that the Pokhara to Beni stretch was relatively easy, with tougher terrain coming later. That was reassuring—until I missed a turn. My GPS rerouted me, and as I looped back, my turn wasn’t a road—it was a single-lane dirt track hugging the side of a mountain. With no visibility around bends, I hesitated. What if a truck came barreling down? What if I couldn't find a spot to pull over? I sat there, hyping myself up, before deciding to just trust the journey. The next few hours were brutal—the “easy” section turned out to be some of the hardest riding I had ever done.
By the time I reached Beni, I was exhausted and feeling completely in over my head. I grabbed cold water, sat down, and questioned my life choices. The deeper I rode into the mountains, the further I strayed from my comfort zone and the safety net of easy help. This was an entirely new level of physical and mental challenge.
Beni bazaar to Jomsom: Pushing My Limits
The next six hours were the most grueling. Water crossings, steep rocky climbs, sheer drop-offs, and a constant mental battle between fear and focus. I was making progress, but I wasn’t living in the moment. Instead, I was caught in a loop of impatience and frustration, letting negative thoughts take over.
When I finally arrived in Jomsom, there was no overwhelming sense of relief—just exhaustion. My priority was simple: find a place to stay.
Jomsom: Breaking Down in a Different Way
I checked into Hotel Dynasty, where I was met with warm hospitality and a room with a stunning mountain view. The lack of heating and limited electricity didn’t faze me—what got to me was the emotional weight of the journey. I called my mom and boyfriend and immediately broke down in tears.
I cried out of pride, exhaustion, and the realization that I had to do it all over again in a few days. I let myself feel everything I had suppressed throughout the day. After collecting myself, I turned on the shower—only to realize there was no hot water. Accepting the little comforts I did have, I bundled up in extra blankets and asked to boil hot water so that I could sleep with hot water bottles to stay warm.
That night, I slept deeply, knowing the next day was my rest day—a much-needed pause before tackling the road back.
A Perfect Rest Day
I woke up the next morning and shifted the curtains, letting the full morning sun flood the room. I stayed in bed for a while, letting the warmth replace the need for blankets. Down in the kitchen, the staff served me a delicious, filling breakfast, which I took back to my room and ate by the window, basking in the sunlight. It felt like magic—a day of absolute stillness and rest.
For most of the morning, I lounged in bed, listening to music and soaking in the view. It was exactly what I needed after the past few days of exhaustion. In the afternoon, I wandered through town, visiting small shops, sitting on stone steps, and just observing daily life in Jomsom.
That’s when I met Tenzing. We started chatting idly about why we were in Jomsom, and I quickly learned that he was an incredible mountain biker and the founder of Trail Builders Nepal. He had traveled from Kathmandu to ride in the mountains, and the videos he showed me of the trails he tackled were absolutely unreal.
We grabbed dinner at his favorite local spot, talking about life, religion, and mindfulness. As I shared my struggles from Pokhara to Jomsom, his advice shifted my perspective. I left our conversation feeling excited, rather than anxious, about the road back.
The Ride Back: Confidence and Flow
The next morning, I felt nervous but ready. The sun was shining, the temperature was rising, and for the first time, I wasn’t focused on what was ahead—I was present. I felt completely in tune with the bike, riding in a flow-like state and tackling obstacles with confidence.
One of the most unforgettable moments happened along the way: a group of young children, dressed in matching school uniforms, lined up along the road and stuck out their hands for high fives as I rode past. That simple gesture filled me with joy, and I carried that feeling for the rest of the ride.
Before I knew it, I was back at the fork in the road where I had hesitated just days before. The hardest part of my journey was behind me. And for a split second, I actually considered turning around and doing it all over again.
The Return Journey: Reflection and Connection
Back in Pokhara, I reconnected with Tenzing’s business partner, Suboodh, and his wife, Shiwani, at their family restaurant, Pokhara Thakali Kitchen. Over a delicious Thakali meal, we shared stories and laughter. I also learned about Working As Angels, the NGO Shiwani founded to promote menstrual hygiene and raise awareness about gender-based violence in schools.
The people I met in Nepal were nothing short of amazing—kind, generous, and inspiring. After saying my goodbyes, I took the night to rest and mentally prepare for the final leg back to Kathmandu.
Final Stretch: A Minor Crash & A Shift in Perspective
Just 30 minutes before reaching Kathmandu, I had a minor crash—nothing serious, just a broken bar-end weight and a bent rear brake lever. After making it through the entire trip without an issue, of course, this had to happen right at the end.
A local mechanic helped me bend the lever back into place, making the final part of the ride much more comfortable. By the time I hit Kathmandu’s rush hour, I was completely unfazed. What once felt overwhelming and chaotic now felt fun and exciting—I had learned to flow with the traffic, stay nimble, and enjoy the ride.
The next few days were spent exploring Kathmandu, visiting cultural sites, and soaking in the last moments of this incredible journey.
Final Thoughts: A Journey Worth Taking
This trip was truly special—the landscapes, the challenges, and, most of all, the people I met along the way. It was filled with type 2 fun, but it left me grateful and transformed.
If you’re ever curious about doing a trip like this, don’t hesitate to reach out or come by the shop—I’d love to chat about it.
If you’d like to support the incredible work being done in Nepal, consider donating to:
🔗 Working As Angels – Promoting menstrual hygiene and gender violence awareness.
🔗 Project Red Panda – Empowering underprivileged kids in Nepal.
Nepal, you were unforgettable. Until next time.
